With all these assisted braking devices over-saturating the climbing world, it can be difficult to navigate and deduce which device best suits your specific needs. Amongst these devices are Petzl’s contributions of the Grigri, Grigri+, and the Neox – three devices that, while they seem to be evolutionary progressions of the same device, feature distinct characteristics that set them apart from one and other.
After spending some time using each device at the local climbing wall and at the crag, I’ll now be taking both a technical and functional look at Petzl’s collection of assisted-braking devices to uncover which device is the ideal fit for which situation.
Let’s START BY TAKING A LOOK AT THOSE FRONT PLATES…
You’ll firstly notice that the exterior plate design of the original Grigri & Neox are very similar, in fact, the only differences include:
- Slightly smaller pins on the Neox connecting the front plate to the body of the device.
- The Neox has the addition of several weight-saving cut-out holes around the centre of the front plate.
- The Neox also features some small print reminding climbers to keep a hand on the dead rope (in case you weren’t doing that already!).
The purpose of these relatively minor adjustments on the Neox are to save as much weight as possible in the device. Due to its heavier internal mechanics, the Neox weighs in at 235g, making it the heaviest out of Petzl’s assortment of assisted-braking devices. Us climbers are inherently adverse to heavy kit, so a design ethos that prioritises weight-saving alongside functionality is imperative to keep the device as a competitor in the wider market.
In contrast, the Grigri+ has a a couple of notable features that are distinctly different to the other models:
- Noticeably, it has the addition of a hard-wearing stainless steel wear plate that is integrated into the device, while the Neox and Grigri wear plates are simply extensions of the aluminium front plate.
- Another difference lies in the closure mechanism of the front plate. The Grigri+ conceals the slot that opens the device on the sealed side of the plate, while the Grigri and Neox feature a more open design.
Now, here comes the first nitpick…
Personally, when using the Grigri+, I found the addition of the stainless steel wear plate to be an uneccessary feature. I’ve been using a standard Grigri for years and am yet to see any significant signs of wear on the aluminium wear plate. Therefore, I struggle to see a justifiable reason to upgrade this aspect of the device to stainless steel.
Additionally, the Grigri+ wear plate is significantly smaller and closer to the device, which I find makes its overall handling more uncomfortable. In contrast, the other two devices wear plates are larger in size and feature a more rounded surface area. I found that this design felt a lot more comfortable to use when lowering your climbing partner.
Ultimately, it speaks volumes that the Neox, as the most recent addition to Petzl’s assisted braking devices, shares more exterior design similarities with the original Grigri as opposed to the Grigri+. A return to the original design suggests that the exterior features on the Grigri are more functional than the experimental design of the Grigri+.
INTERNAL DESIGN & FUNCTIONALITY
Now lets get into these devices properly. After opening up the front plate and taking a peak inside, there’s immediately a lot of key points to chat about…
Neox’s Rotatory CylindeR
I’m sure you’ve been there – pumped out of your gourd while desperately trying to clip that next draw, only for your partners Grigri to accidentally cam and leave you effing and blinding at your poor belay partner for a mere equipment fault.
It’s no new knowledge that the Neox’s most notable feature is its grooved rotatory cylinder— designed to be a game-changer for paying out slack while lead belaying. Compared to a standard ATC, the Neox feels noticeably smooth and responsive. At its core, the device was designed to reduce the chance of accidental camming when a climber clips a draw or makes a dynamic movement. While not entirely eliminated, this issue is significantly reduced with the Neox.
When paying out slack quickly, the Neox can catch slightly and occasionally makes a clicking noise – so if you’re the type who gets irritated by that kind of thing, perhaps the Grigri is the better device.
Rope Guide Differences
Both the GriGri+ and Neox include a friction plate on the back that helps guide the rope through the device. In contrast, the original GriGri integrates this guide into the external aluminum plate, potentially creating another wear point over time. That being said, we’ve been using our GriGri’s on countless of courses over the years and are yet to see a significant amount of wear on the aluminium plate, so perhaps the friction plate isn’t all that necessary on the newer models.
Back Plate Protection
An underappreciated improvement in the GriGri+ is its extended stainless-steel rope guard, which wraps around to protect the back of the closing plate. This extra shielding reduces wear in an area that typically shows signs of rope friction. In contrast to the rope guide friction plate, this is something that’s clearly visible on older GriGri models and is something unique about the Grigri+.
ADDITIONAL FEATURES
NEOX HOLLOWED HANDLE
In keeping with its minimalist approach, the Neox sports a hollowed-out handle to reduce weight— this is not only a smart weight-saving choice, but it also gives the Neox a more elegant aesthetic.
GriGri+ Belay Modes
The GriGri+ includes a mode selector that lets you toggle between top rope and lead belay settings. Unfortunately, this switch tends to become stiff and sticky over time. In my case, it became completely stuck in lead mode which is obviously not ideal making it impossible for me to comment on how well the device performs in each mode.
GriGri+ Anti-Panic Function
A notable safety feature of the GriGri+ is its anti-panic mechanism. If the belayer lowers a climber too quickly, the device automatically engages to prevent a fall. This is fantastic for beginners, but can frustrate more experienced users who prefer full control during a lower. As a bonus product, the Edelrid Pinch found an innovative way to fix this issue – but thats a blog for another time!
WEIGHT COMPARISON
| Petzl Grigri | Petzl Grigri+ | Petzl Neox |
| 175g | 200g | 235g |
Final Thoughts
Ultimately, each of these devices brings something unique to the table:
- The GriGri is the lightest and most straightforward option—great for experienced climbers who want reliability with minimal frills.
- The GriGri+ shines in terms of durability and safety features, especially for beginners. However, this is about as far as it goes. I personally would only put this in the hands of a panic-prone beginner to ensure that no accidental drops while lowering occur.
- The Neox, while the heaviest, offers the most advanced handling and smoothest slack payout, making it ideal for lead climbing enthusiasts who want every advantage. It’s a lot more pleasurable to use than its predecessors and is well worth the extra money.
With all that being said, whichever model you choose, you’re obviously going to be in good hands. But if you’re chasing the future of lead belaying, the Neox is definitely worth it. If not, then the team at Hatt Adventures recommends sticking with the standard Grigri.